Gstaad: From Berndorf to World-Class Resort – The History of St. Nicholas Chapel and the Village Fire of 1898

Summary

Gstaad developed from a sleepy Berndorf with approximately 150 inhabitants into a world-renowned luxury resort. The turning point was marked by the catastrophic village fire of 1898, in which approximately twelve houses were destroyed. The Gstaad families, in particular Karl Reichenbach, used the reconstruction for visionary redesign: Between 1904 and 1913, ten new hotels were built, laying the foundation for the international reputation of the Bernese Oberland. At the center of the historical identity stands the St. Nicholas Chapel, built in 1402, which today still operates as a Reformed church.

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Detailed Summary

The Beginnings: Chapel and Rural Structure

Gstaad was originally a small farming village in the upper Simmental, in the municipality of Saanen, located at 1050 meters above sea level. The area belonged to the Saanen administrative district near the Vaud language border. The St. Nicholas Chapel, the oldest building in the village, was erected in 1402 and its bell still dates from 1404. Such chapels typically stood at crossroads – here at the transitions to the passes leading to Valais and Vaud – and served travelers as places to pray for safe passage.

The Gstaad population lived from agriculture, livestock farming, forestry, and timber trade. Particularly important was their work as pack animal drivers: they transported laden animals (mules and horses) over Alpine passes. In 1555, Gstaad came under Bernese rule through the acquisition of the impoverished Counts of Greyerz. This also led to the Reformation: the Catholic population was converted to Protestant faith – a change that was not greeted with enthusiasm everywhere.

The Reformation and Ecclesiastical Development

After 1555, the St. Nicholas Chapel was reformed. In 1653, the Bernese built the tower as it is visible today and expanded the building. The oldest parts date from the second half of the 15th century and show late Gothic features. The chapel was equipped with beautiful heraldic windows depicting old Gstaad families – families, some of which still exist today. In the 19th century, the chapel briefly served as a schoolroom because the village lacked space. Following a 1926 renovation with choir extension, it came under the administration of the Saanen parish church, where it has remained to this day. Notably, the chapel has no cemetery of its own – this was always at the Saanen church.

The Village Fire of 1898: Catalyst for Transformation

The transformative event was the village fire from July 18–19, 1898. According to historian Gottfried von Siebenthal, it was arson: an intoxicated baker's apprentice from Valais wanted to work for a baker, was rejected and threatened her physically. To take revenge, he set fire to the wood pile behind the house – possibly just to prevent the baker from baking the next morning. However, the heat generated created a chain reaction in the closely packed wooden houses, triggering a major fire disaster.

Fire brigades from neighboring villages appeared remarkably quickly, but the heat development was devastating. The emergency responders had to repeatedly pour water over themselves, and water had to be brought from the Rauibach stream. The fire chief decided to abandon the lower village to save the older village center – a decision that caused resentment but proved to be correct. Fortunately, there were no deaths or injuries; all people were able to escape in time. Approximately twelve houses were destroyed, and 78 people became homeless. Some moved away, others were housed with relatives.

Reconstruction and Visionary Development

Despite the catastrophe, the will to rebuild was strong. The new houses were built relatively quickly, but now consisted predominantly of stone rather than wood to minimize fire risks. Crucial was the placement of houses farther apart from each other and the creation of a relatively large street between them – this space creation proved essential for later development.

Help came from throughout Switzerland and even from Saanen emigrants in Louisville in the USA. However, negative aspects also emerged: jealousies, envy, and thefts of aid goods were commonplace.

Central to the economic transformation were local entrepreneurial families. Karl Reichenbach, a Grand Councilor and timber merchant entrepreneur with influence in Bern, played a key role – both in reconstruction and in later railroad construction. The Gstaad families recognized the opportunity: they invested in hotels. Between 1904 and 1913, ten new family-owned hotels were built. This development was a breakthrough – the first guests came quickly, and within decades Gstaad became world-famous for its natural beauty and luxury tourism.

Modern Development and Preservation

The population grew from approximately 150 to today approximately 7,000 persons in the municipality of Saanen (significantly more with tourists during the season). A small Berndorf had become an international world-class resort – a remarkable achievement of the locals in an astonishingly short time.

Today, local families still shape the village but are now involved in hotels, sports, and ski facilities, alongside many newcomers and foreign workers in tourism. Pride in this success story is evident, even though many details of the history may have been forgotten.

To protect the area from overdevelopment, Gstaad introduced a strict urban planning system from 1962 onward. New buildings were to blend into the prevailing architecture – typical wooden chalets – and building activity was deliberately limited. Nevertheless, losses occurred: the "Chäserie" building with wooden façade from 1500, one of the most significant alongside the chapel, was demolished in 1962 instead of restored – an architectural-historical loss exemplifying thoughtless modernization.

Key Findings

• The St. Nicholas Chapel of 1402 is Gstaad's oldest and culturally most significant building and continues to shape the village's identity as a Reformed church
• The village fire of 1898 was a catastrophe but led to ingenious urban planning (wider streets, greater distances) that enabled later development
• Local entrepreneurial families like Karl Reichenbach recognized the economic opportunity and strategically invested in hotel development (10 hotels between 1904–1913)
• Gstaad developed from a 150-person village into a world-famous luxury resort of the Bernese Oberland within a few decades – an achievement of visionary urban planning
• Since 1962, strict urban planning has protected the area from overdevelopment and preserved the characteristic wooden chalet architecture, though with losses of significant historical buildings

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